Sea Princess Instructions 1 - Join the Bow Base and Main Base plates. You will have to join two bits of paper to make a template for the Main Base plate. 2 - Assemble former F4 out of its three components. Then join the Main Base and the Bow Base at the specified angle using F2, F4 and the two braces. 3 - Assemble the Bow Hook/Bow Former/F1 part, then add the rest of the Formers to the base plates. Use the superstructure to hold them in their correct positions. Glue the cockpit floor between F4 and F5. 4 - Reverse the base and add the Keel, chine formers and prop tube. Add the rest of the keel formers. Temporarily install the motor to obtain the correct shaft angle. Glue the superstructure sides in place. 5 - Add 1/16" strip rebates to the keel and superstructure sides. 6 - Skin the hull bottom. 7 - Assemble the paper deck templates against the existing superstructure, then cut and clue the decks in place. 8 - Assemble the forward 'curved roof' superstructure, following the pictures on the EeZeBilt web site. Add the front cabin windscreen. 9 - Attach the rudder assembly and the servo trays/side reinforcement. Then skin the hull sides. 10 - Assemble the rear and forward cabin roof frames, then add the 1/16" sheet coverings to them, and the small fixed forward cabin roof. 11 - Attach the Cockpit Windscreen and Mast. Cut out and attach the rubbing strake and the spray rails. The rubbing strake covers the joint between the side and the deck, while the spray rail covers the chine joint. Sand the top edge of the spray rail at the bow to match the side slope so that the rail becomes tringular in cross section. The boat can now be sealed and painted. 12 - The boat is very light for its size. It can take most motors up to 500 size. I used a 9" prop-tube and a 1.5" rudder, with a maximum prop size of about 40mm. Batteries go under the cockpit floor - arrange a suitable access point and securing structure during the build. General advice: 1 - This is rather big for an all-balsa boat. Try to use hard balsa for all parts, particularly parts which may get knocked, like the keel, superstructure and sides. Ideally, make these out of ply. 2 - The windows are best cut using a high-speed craft tool with a sanding/cutting bit. Otherwise, they should be cut undersize and filed/sanded to exact size. 3 - Superstructure and deck painting is best done before final assembly, particularly if you want to use stain and varnish. 4 - Look at the website http://eezebilt.hobby-site.com/Seapics1.html for a demonstration build log.